========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: "Suzuki GT750" Subject: [GT750] Stuck Cylinder barrel From: "Nigel Barraclough" Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 20:27:59 -0000 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html Help. I have a '72 J in need of replacement crank seals, and I am struggling to get the cylinder block off the crankcases. I have made the saw tool described on the Smokeriders site and cleaned out the gunge in the stud holes until clean metal shavings appeared. The stud holes have been stood full off penetrating fluid since Christmas ( I have other pojects on the go !) to no avail. I have today finished a jacking plate ( 15mm thick with M10 jackscrews), and while the block has moved about 3 mm at the rear, it does not seem to be moving at the front.I have so much tension on the jackscrews that the plate is bending. My garage roof supports are not strong enough to try the suggested " hang the block from the roof and and persuade the crankcases with a large hammer and block of wood" method suggested a while back. My prefered method would be to apply heat, but the large mass of the engine dissipates the heat faster than I can introduce it. Has anybody any other suggestions ? Thanks, Nigel Barraclough ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Advertisement: redtag.com offers UNBELIEVABLE prices on a wide variety of brand names. Get a boys or girls MURRAY 20" bike for only $29.99! Compare as high as $99. To receive 10% off any purchase TODAY go to http://www.listbot.com/links/redtag2 -------- Attachment 2.2 KBytes -------- ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: "Suzuki GT750" Subject: [GT750] Stuck Cylinder barrel From: Martin Krause Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 01:01:04 -0500 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html Hi, I had the same problem several times. If you have time, pour every day some WD 40 Oil into the stud holes. After a month or so, the cylinder will get off, mostly. Best regards Martin GT750J,K,A,B, GT2502-X7, RZ 350 http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/wasserbueffel ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ______________________________________________________________________ Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com Subject: Re: [GT750] Stuck Cylinder barrel From: "Peter Siegel" Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 08:20:38 -0500 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html Nigel, I also happen to collect Vespa scooters, and what I found to work on stuck pistons is to fill the barrel with diesel fuel and let it sit for two days. This would free up pistons that were stuck and rusted in their bores for thirty years. Good luck, Peter Siegel >>> "Nigel Barraclough" 03/16 3:27 PM >>> Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html Help. I have a '72 J in need of replacement crank seals, and I am struggling to get the cylinder block off the crankcases. I have made the saw tool described on the Smokeriders site and cleaned out the gunge in the stud holes until clean metal shavings appeared. The stud holes have been stood full off penetrating fluid since Christmas ( I have other pojects on the go !) to no avail. I have today finished a jacking plate ( 15mm thick with M10 jackscrews), and while the block has moved about 3 mm at the rear, it does not seem to be moving at the front.I have so much tension on the jackscrews that the plate is bending. My garage roof supports are not strong enough to try the suggested " hang the block from the roof and and persuade the crankcases with a large hammer and block of wood" method suggested a while back. My prefered method would be to apply heat, but the large mass of the engine dissipates the heat faster than I can introduce it. Has anybody any other suggestions ? Thanks, Nigel Barraclough /links/redtag2 ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ______________________________________________________________________ Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: "Suzuki GT750" Subject: Re: [GT750] Stuck Cylinder barrel From: "warnera" Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 21:32:31 +0800 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html Nigel, I like almost everybody that has dismantled a GT750 motor have had the same problem. I like you made a jacking plate held to the barrel by the 10mm bolts then jacked only the front two hold down bolts with fine threaded bolts (they apply more pressure than coarse threads) then I applied heat to where the dowels are located at the base of the cylinder barrel. This has worked for me on 3 seperate occasions so with a bit of luck it should work for you. Sorry I almost forgot, you may have to give the thing a bit of a wack once you have applied the heat. Good luck and be careful as it is not hard to stuff a barrel or crankcase. Regards Alan Warner -----Original Message----- From: Nigel Barraclough To: Suzuki GT750 Date: Friday, 17 March 2000 4:29 Subject: [GT750] Stuck Cylinder barrel Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html Help. I have a '72 J in need of replacement crank seals, and I am struggling to get the cylinder block off the crankcases. I have made the saw tool described on the Smokeriders site and cleaned out the gunge in the stud holes until clean metal shavings appeared. The stud holes have been stood full off penetrating fluid since Christmas ( I have other pojects on the go !) to no avail. I have today finished a jacking plate ( 15mm thick with M10 jackscrews), and while the block has moved about 3 mm at the rear, it does not seem to be moving at the front.I have so much tension on the jackscrews that the plate is bending. My garage roof supports are not strong enough to try the suggested " hang the block from the roof and and persuade the crankcases with a large hammer and block of wood" method suggested a while back. My prefered method would be to apply heat, but the large mass of the engine dissipates the heat faster than I can introduce it. Has anybody any other suggestions ? Thanks, Nigel Barraclough ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Advertisement: redtag.com offers UNBELIEVABLE prices on a wide variety of brand names. Get a boys or girls MURRAY 20" bike for only $29.99! Compare as high as $99. To receive 10% off any purchase TODAY go to http://www.listbot.com/links/redtag2 ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ______________________________________________________________________ Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com -------- Attachment 4.3 KBytes -------- ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com Subject: Re: [GT750] Stuck barrels. From: "Adam Smith" Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 20:24:39 -0700 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Start Your Own FREE Email List at ListBot http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb ---------------------------------------------------------------------- I have just begun the teardown of my 750 A bottle and I am having some trouble removing the barrels from the upper crankcase as the holes around the studs are full of corosion and dirt etc.Can anyone help with this (it seems to me everyone is pretty helpful on the list) Thanks ADAM 76 GT750 73 Mach 3 Kawi -- 73 RD 350 admsmith@alberta.com - email (780) 423-2492 ext. 2500 - voicemail/fax ---- somebody wrote: > ___________________________________________________________ FREE voicemail, email and fax, all in one place. Sign Up Now! http://www.alberta.com ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: Suzuki GT750 Subject: Re: [GT750] Stuck barrels. From: "J. Pierson" Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 22:25:31 -0600 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Start Your Own FREE Email List at ListBot http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Adam Smith wrote: > Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html > > --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- > Start Your Own FREE Email List at ListBot > http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > I have just begun the teardown of my 750 A bottle and I am having > some trouble removing the barrels from the upper crankcase as the holes > around the studs are full of corosion and dirt etc.Can anyone help with > this (it seems to me everyone is pretty helpful on the list) > Thanks ADAM 76 GT750 > 73 Mach 3 Kawi > -- 73 RD 350 > > admsmith@alberta.com - email > (780) 423-2492 ext. 2500 - voicemail/fax > > ---- somebody wrote: > > > > ___________________________________________________________ > FREE voicemail, email and fax, all in one place. Sign Up Now! http://www.alberta.com > > ______________________________________________________________________ > To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com -- ----------------------------------------------------- Click here for Free Video!! http://www.gohip.com/free_video/ Soak'em with WD40,kerosene,maiden oil,or anything else you've got. Be patient and let the stuff work its way in reapply daily or whenever you feel like it. The big plastic shot filled mallet or an equivilent is a big help. Don't use anything hard enough to dent the aluminum! If you got the head off without too much hassle then you're doing better than me. It took three days of off and on attempts to get my head loose. The barrel was easier. Good luck,Guzzi John ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com Subject: Re: [GT750] Stuck barrels. From: "Mike Vos" Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 18:09:54 +1100 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Start Your Own FREE Email List at ListBot http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Adam, I suggest that you spray some WD40, or some equivelent penetrating lubricant down the holes and leave fort a few hours to soak, then take a hide faced mallet and gently tap the barrels till they come loose. If you turn the motor to face forward, you can tap the underside of the ridge on the front of the barrels, till they start to move, then tap the back of then till it lifts and then simply lift the barrels off. Mike _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: "Suzuki GT750" Subject: RE: [GT750] Stuck barrels. From: "Prestage, Darrell" Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 8:21 -0600 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Start Your Own FREE Email List at ListBot http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Adam: I have had the same problem with the two GT750 motors I have broken down. It is a slow process. Your best tool is patience. There is a tool you can make if you so desire. It is found on the SmokeRiders website. Go to: Tech page, then Suzuki info, then Engine info. There you will find a Head Remover tool. If you have the capability to make the tool. I have not used it, and approach from a low tech angle. I have filled the stud holes with WD40, and used a thin putty knife to work around between the crankcase and base of the cylinder. (Don't forget to remove the nut at the rear of the cylinder base next to the right carb intake.) I also gently tap the cylinder with a rubber hammer. Eventually, I can get small crevice started. I have an old straight bladed kitchen knife that I use to wedge into the crevice. Using the thin side I slide the blade into the crevice, then gently tap the wide end of the blade to move the knife further in. After just a couple of millimeters, I remove the blade and try to start the putty knife at the opposite end of the cylinder, repeating the knife insertion if possible. As things start to loosen, I use thicker putty knifes, and maybe some wooden wedges. And at every opportunity, I sprayed WD40 (Liquid Wrench, etc.) down the stud holes, and between the cylinder and crankcase. Remember to keep the cylinder moving perpendicular to the crankcase, the stud bolts don't have much room to move laterally. This process took almost a week of working on the cylinder in the evenings for 3 or 4 hours a night. But I removed it without damage to the gasket surfaces or studs. As I said PATIENCE IS YOUR BEST TOOL. And the extra time spent will pay off in you having a smooth flat gasket surface. Good luck, Darrell -----Original Message----- From: Suzuki GT750 [SMTP:GT750_SRA@listbot.com] Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 9:33 PM To: GT750_SRA Subject: Re: [GT750] Stuck barrels. Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Start Your Own FREE Email List at ListBot http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb ---------------------------------------------------------------------- I have just begun the teardown of my 750 A bottle and I am having some trouble removing the barrels from the upper crankcase as the holes around the studs are full of corosion and dirt etc.Can anyone help with this (it seems to me everyone is pretty helpful on the list) Thanks ADAM 76 GT750 73 Mach 3 Kawi -- 73 RD 350 admsmith@alberta.com - email (780) 423-2492 ext. 2500 - voicemail/fax ---- somebody wrote: > ___________________________________________________________ FREE voicemail, email and fax, all in one place. Sign Up Now! http://www.alberta.com ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: Suzuki GT750 Subject: Re: [GT750] Stuck barrels. From: "William G. Eickmeier" Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 08:34:52 -0600 (CST) -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb ---------------------------------------------------------------------- At 08:24 PM 12/28/2000 -0700, you wrote: >Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html > >--------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- >Start Your Own FREE Email List at ListBot >http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > I have just begun the teardown of my 750 A bottle and I am having >some trouble removing the barrels from the upper crankcase as the holes >around the studs are full of corosion and dirt etc.Can anyone help with >this (it seems to me everyone is pretty helpful on the list) > Thanks ADAM 76 GT750 > 73 Mach 3 Kawi >-- 73 RD 350 > > Adam, Don't forget the one nut behind the cylinder block that must be undone before removal. Bill William G. Eickmeier Associate Dean College of Arts and Science 311 Kirkland Hall Vanderbilt University Nashville, TN 37240 Phone: (615) 343-6170 Fax: (615) 343-8453 ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com Subject: Re: [GT750] Stuck barrels. From: Lemans750@aol.com Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 17:03:43 EST -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Start Your Own FREE Email List at ListBot http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb ---------------------------------------------------------------------- In a message dated 12/28/00 10:27:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, admsmith@alberta.com writes: << the holes around the studs are full of corosion and dirt etc.Can anyone help with this (it seems to me everyone is pretty helpful on the list) >> Adam, I've never used a better penetrant than a product called PB Blaster. Far superior to 3 in 1, Liquid Wrench, etc. You may also try pouring a little Diesel fuel in there to soften things up. Toss some down the cylinder bores too if it hasn't run in a while (to be sure the piston rings are free). Plan on replacing the hardware (local specialty hardware shops can provide more corrosion resistant and perhaps stronger stuff than the originals which run something like 8 bucks each from Suzuki!). If you can't find the PB Blaster locally, perhaps you can order it direct. Here's the URL for the company that makes it (no I don't work for them, but I do have a can on the shelf!): http://www.pbblaster.com/ Hope that helps! As others have mentioned, soak it for a few days, then a few good raps with a soft mallet (or a block of wood between the barrel and your sledge) should shock it loose. Be sure to coat the new hardware with Never Seize (or equivalent) before reinstalling it. This will help to serve as a "barrier" between the dissimilar metals (off topic here, but the stuff works great when applied to the back sides of your cage's aluminum wheels too, to prevent them from sticking to the hub/ rotor/ drum - well worth doing this the next time you rotate tires). Also, you may find using a non silicate antifreeze (like Caterpillar Extended Life or the Texaco Havoline equivalent) will prevent this galvanic corrosion altogether. You'll notice an amazing amount of "green goo" in there when you do get it off. The alternate coolants I mentioned prevents this formation at hose connections and throughout the system. The only downside is that it doesn't have an odor, and is red in color (so leaks may not be as noticeable as the bright green stuff). Look for dried white traces at hose connections (sign of a "cold leak"), and check the level regularly. Bill ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: "Suzuki GT750" Subject: Re: [GT750] Stuck barrels. From: "El-Ten Technology Pty Ltd" Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 09:18:38 +1100 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Start Your Own FREE Email List at ListBot http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb ---------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a made up "barrel Puller" that has helped me and a number of others to get those stuck barrels off. It is very simple in construction. A sheet of plate steel (nice and thick) about the same dimensions as the head. Drill holes matching up to the head bolts so that the plate can be bolted to the barrel much the same as the head. Then drill holes matching the studs in the barrel. these are then threaded for large bolts. You now have a puller. To use it as has been suggested pour "penetrine", "wd40" or some other penetrating liquid down the holes and gradually tighten up the large bolts. This is a slow process but will eventually get there. In most cases the problem is with the pistons also sticking in the bore so liberally load the penetrating oil in this area. Once you get it started you can pack between the Crankcase and the bottom of the barrel with wood and gently tap the piston crowns again with wood making sure you are not too heavy handed and mushroom the pistons. Using the puller to tighten up all the time. If you were in Sydney Australia I would happily lend it. But I think you are in Canada ? You will eventually win - with patience. Steve -----Original Message----- From: Adam Smith To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com Date: Friday, 29 December 2000 14:28 Subject: Re: [GT750] Stuck barrels. >Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html > >--------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- >Start Your Own FREE Email List at ListBot >http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > I have just begun the teardown of my 750 A bottle and I am having >some trouble removing the barrels from the upper crankcase as the holes >around the studs are full of corosion and dirt etc.Can anyone help with >this (it seems to me everyone is pretty helpful on the list) > Thanks ADAM 76 GT750 > 73 Mach 3 Kawi >-- 73 RD 350 > >admsmith@alberta.com - email >(780) 423-2492 ext. 2500 - voicemail/fax > > > >---- somebody wrote: >> > >___________________________________________________________ >FREE voicemail, email and fax, all in one place. Sign Up Now! http://www.alberta.com > > >______________________________________________________________________ >To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com > ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: Subject: [GT750] Try this for removing a stuck cylinder ... From: "Chris L. Beltz" Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 15:17:42 -0500 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Start Your Own FREE Email List at ListBot http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb ---------------------------------------------------------------------- I have restored several bikes, but I am currently restoring my first GT750. My cylinder did not lift right off the crankcase, which I have learned is epidemic, but I discovered a very slick way to remove the cylinder: 1) Obtain 9 - 3/8 x 16 brad-type T-nuts. They are the same nut used to hold spikes to snowmobile tracks, but without the barbs. 2) Obtain 9 - 3/8 x 16 x 6 in. full thread hex bolts. 3) Using the proper tap and die (8 x 1.25mm), clean up the cylinder threads, and the mating threads on the small cap screws which bolt the head to the cylinder. 4) Insert the T-nuts into all 9 studded holes. 5) Place the head back on the cylinder, and tighten the head using the cap screws, ONLY TO HAND TIGHT. The object is to bind the T-nut flange between the cylinder and head only enough to prevent it from turning, and not to warp the head or cylinder deck. 6) Screw the hex bolts into the T-nut until they bind the tops of the studs. 7) Using half-turns, tighten the hex bolts back and forth while noting that the cylinder is pulling away from the crankcase at an even rate. This worked well for me ... no dead blow hammers and no impact damage to cylinder or head whatsoever. ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com -------- Attachment 2.1 KBytes -------- ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com Subject: [GT750] stuck cylinder block From: Dustin L Ricks Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 19:11:52 -0500 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Dial 800-555-TELL for FREE long-distance calls. Tell your friends -- forward this message! http://on.linkexchange.com/?ATID=27&AID=2144 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello fellow discussion page members I am in need of your help. It has been one week now that I have been tring to remove my cylinder block from the rest of the motor and I and my rubber mallet are having no luck what so ever all of the bolts are removed and the blockn has been sooking in wd 40 for the past week. is their any tricks to removing this ? If so please let me know. This thing is driving me crazy ! Also while I have your attention where can I get a service manual? Thanks for your time Dusty ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com Subject: Re: [GT750] stuck cylinder block From: "Mike Vos" Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 19:41:38 +1100 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Dial 800-555-TELL for FREE long-distance calls. Tell your friends -- forward this message! http://on.linkexchange.com/?ATID=27&AID=2144 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi have you removed the nut behind the right hand cylinder. Mike _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: "Suzuki GT750" Subject: RE: [GT750] stuck cylinder block From: "Prestage, Darrell" Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 7:46 -0600 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Dial 800-555-TELL for FREE long-distance calls. Tell your friends -- forward this message! http://on.linkexchange.com/?ATID=27&AID=2144 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: Suzuki GT750 [SMTP:GT750_SRA@listbot.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 6:39 PM To: GT750_SRA Subject: [GT750] stuck cylinder block Hi Dusty: Well it sounds like you are being initiated into the Water Buffalo Society. I think anybody that has tried to do any motor work on their Buffalo has had this trouble. (I sure have.) Continue to use the rubber mallet and be sure to muster all the patience you have. After prying two of these cylinder blocks off of engines I have come up with some ways to do it. Use what works for you. First, make sure all the bolts are out (including the sneaky nut under the right intake at the rear of the block). I have an old kitchen knife (the blade is about 8" long) and a stiff putty knife. I will start working around the base of the cylinder trying to make an opening with the putty knife and mallet. Apply liberal amounts of the penetrating oil of your choice. Then I will start at a corner of the block and GENTLY tap the kitchen knife into the crevase between cases and block using the "sharp" edge to free the block. Be careful not to force the kitchen knife in, to avoid damaging the gasket surfaces. I work back and forth between the putty knife and kitchen knife all around the base, eventually getting some separation. If none of the pistons are frozen in the cylinders you should eventually get the block to come free. But it will take a lot of patience (A LOT). I found if I was getting frustrated with it I would just go do something else for a while. It's a slow process since most of these motors haven't been apart since they left Japan. There is also a device that can be fabricated for removing the cylinder on the Smokeriders website. I believe it is under the Tools section. I didn't have the equipment to make this tool, but you may. Check it out if you want to. Good luck, Darrell Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Dial 800-555-TELL for FREE long-distance calls. Tell your friends -- forward this message! http://on.linkexchange.com/?ATID=27&AID=2144 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello fellow discussion page members I am in need of your help. It has been one week now that I have been tring to remove my cylinder block from the rest of the motor and I and my rubber mallet are having no luck what so ever all of the bolts are removed and the blockn has been sooking in wd 40 for the past week. is their any tricks to removing this ? If so please let me know. This thing is driving me crazy ! Also while I have your attention where can I get a service manual? Thanks for your time Dusty ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com Subject: [GT750] cylinder stud boring bar From: Dustin L Ricks Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 10:51:09 -0500 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Get low APR NextCard VISA, in 30 seconds! 1. Fill in the brief application 2. Receive approval decision in 30 seconds 3. Get rates as low as 2.99% Intro or 9.99% Ongoing APR and now annual fee! Apply NOW! http://on.linkexchange.com/?ATID=27&AID=2269 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello to all of the discussion page members I have a question for you , have any of you guys ever used a cylinder stud boring bar ? I got the plans for this contraption off of the smoke riders web page and had a local machine shop make me one. I have tried it out on the cylinder but I am not sure what I am supposed to be accomplishing. The counterbore on this thing is deep enough to bore completely to the crankcase but the cylinder stud holes are beveled about one inch below the top of the holes which makes it impossible to bore any futher than that without cutting into aluminum. Are all gt cylinder blocks beveled in the stud holes because if so why did I spend 60. dollars on a tool that will only clean a portion of the gunk out of the hole? Help with answers Thanks Dusty ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: "Suzuki GT750" Subject: Re: [GT750] cylinder stud boring bar From: Terry Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 11:12:20 -0500 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Try Tellme! Call 1-800-555-TELL News, weather, restaurants...& much more. BONUS: make FREE long distance calls! http://on.linkexchange.com/?ATID=27&AID=2145 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- On Tue, 13 Feb 2001, you wrote: > Hello to all of the discussion page members I have a question for you , > have any of you guys ever used a cylinder stud boring bar ? I got the > plans for this contraption off of the smoke riders web page and had a > local machine shop make me one. I have tried it out on the cylinder but I > am not sure what I am supposed to be accomplishing. The counterbore on > this thing is deep enough to bore completely to the crankcase but the > cylinder stud holes are beveled about one inch below the top of the holes > which makes it impossible to bore any futher than that without cutting > into aluminum. Are all gt cylinder blocks beveled in the stud holes > because if so why did I spend 60. dollars on a tool that will only clean > a portion of the gunk out of the hole? Help with answers Thanks Dusty FWIW and from memory, I believe that the purpose of the tool would be to clean out the portion of the holes that the head nuts turn in so that you can get an accurate torque reading that would be difficult to get if the bolts were turning in corrosion. There is a bevel there becuase the heat nuts only go down that far and there was no sense in weakening the cylinders the rest of the way down. Corrosion in the lower part only effects cylinder removal which is only down every 100k or so ;>), whereas torquing the head is done a lot more often. Maybe you could rent the tool to other listers to recove some of the cost. terry Terry Grogan 68,76 T/GT500, 71 T250, 74 GT550, 75 GT750, 81 BMW R65/Velorex SC ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com (Suzuki GT750) Subject: Re: [GT750] cylinder stud boring bar From: suzukidave@webtv.net (David) Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:57:51 -0500 (EST) -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Build a marketing database and send targeted HTML and text e-mail newsletters to your customers with List Builder. http://www.listbuilder.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Dusty, Lots of fun getting those gt blocks off huh, for sure you do not want to cut down the stud hole any farther than the length of the stud the purpose of the tool is to clean out all the rust that devlops around the stud from water getting in around the head bolt over the years, to clear this rust out helps a lot in getting the block off , also when i got mine off the studs needed to be replaced ( rusted bad) the price of suzuki ones was unreal over $120.00 u.s. so i went to a metal shop and purchased enough cold rolled steal rod to do the job and a $5.00 die and made my oun (less than $20.00 ) I do not remember the hole getting smaller as it went down but it must be as large as head bolts for the length of the bolts ( did he make the tool the right size) the head bolts on my 73 are at least 4in long dont know if this helped any but good luck. suzukidave ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com (Suzuki GT750) Subject: Re: [GT750] engine removal From: suzukidave@webtv.net (David) Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 21:46:48 -0400 (EDT) -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Get greater financial power with NextCard(r)Visa(r) Transfer balances to an APR as low as 2.99% Intro or 9.99% Ongoing. 24-hour online account management and Rewards Points for every dollar you spend. APPLY NOW! http://www.bcentral.com/listbot/NextCard ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Glad to be of help Gunnar , i could not imagine getting off one of these cylinders off in the frame, unless you are very lucky it is going to be a bear.it was much easyer for me to have it out where i could use a soft hammer on it . I never tried useing the tool described on the smoke riders site but it does look like it would speed things up . please save yourself some grief and resist the temtation to pry up on the bottom of the cylinder ( i ruined one this way) Good luck SuzukiDave ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: "Suzuki GT750" Subject: Re: [GT750] engine removal From: Gunnar Forsgren Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 12:13:45 +0200 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Get greater financial power with NextCard(r)Visa(r) Transfer balances to an APR as low as 2.99% Intro or 9.99% Ongoing. 24-hour online account management and Rewards Points for every dollar you spend. APPLY NOW! http://www.bcentral.com/listbot/NextCard ---------------------------------------------------------------------- On Sat, 5 May 2001 21:46:48 -0400 (EDT), you wrote: > >Glad to be of help Gunnar , i could not imagine getting off one of >these cylinders off in the frame, unless you are very lucky it is going >to be a bear.it was much easyer for me to have it out where i could use >a soft hammer on it . I never tried useing the tool described on the >smoke riders site but it does look like it would speed things up . >please save yourself some grief and resist the temtation to pry up on >the bottom of the cylinder ( i ruined one this way) Good luck SuzukiDave > Thanks, I will practice some tricks I learnt from buffalo zen master Ray Meyers, such as taking my time. People with higher levels of enlightment can just sit there for hours in front of the stuck barrel and observe it from different angles, appreciate the beauty of the aluminium castings, spray some penetrating rust oil on it, give it a few blows now and then, listen to 70's music, read newspapers and finally it will automagically loosen up, no sweat :-) /gunnar ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com Subject: Re: [GT750] engine removal From: "todd wittemann" Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 10:26:30 -0700 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Get greater financial power with NextCard(r)Visa(r) Transfer balances to an APR as low as 2.99% Intro or 9.99% Ongoing. 24-hour online account management and Rewards Points for every dollar you spend. APPLY NOW! http://www.bcentral.com/listbot/NextCard ---------------------------------------------------------------------- my trick to getting the barrels off was to thread the holes that the bolt caps went down in. then run a bolt the proper size down those tapped holes thus pushing against the cylinder bolts that are down in there a couple of inches. tap as many as needed, work slowly and work evenly, from side to side, top to bottom. this has worked for 3 bikes i've had to do it to. >From: Gunnar Forsgren >Reply-To: "Suzuki GT750" >To: "Suzuki GT750" >Subject: Re: [GT750] engine removal >Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 12:13:45 +0200 > >Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html > >--------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- >Get greater financial power with NextCard(r)Visa(r) >Transfer balances to an APR as low as 2.99% Intro or 9.99% Ongoing. >24-hour online account management and Rewards Points for every >dollar you spend. APPLY NOW! > >http://www.bcentral.com/listbot/NextCard >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >On Sat, 5 May 2001 21:46:48 -0400 (EDT), you wrote: > > > >Glad to be of help Gunnar , i could not imagine getting off one of > >these cylinders off in the frame, unless you are very lucky it is going > >to be a bear.it was much easyer for me to have it out where i could use > >a soft hammer on it . I never tried useing the tool described on the > >smoke riders site but it does look like it would speed things up . > >please save yourself some grief and resist the temtation to pry up on > >the bottom of the cylinder ( i ruined one this way) Good luck SuzukiDave > > >Thanks, I will practice some tricks I learnt from buffalo zen master >Ray Meyers, such as taking my time. People with higher levels of >enlightment can just sit there for hours in front of the stuck barrel >and observe it from different angles, appreciate the beauty of the >aluminium castings, spray some penetrating rust oil on it, give it a >few blows now and then, listen to 70's music, read newspapers and >finally it will automagically loosen up, no sweat :-) > >/gunnar > > >______________________________________________________________________ >To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com (Suzuki GT750) Subject: Re: [GT750] engine removal From: suzukidave@webtv.net (David) Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 13:38:36 -0400 (EDT) -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Get greater financial power with NextCard(r)Visa(r) Transfer balances to an APR as low as 2.99% Intro or 9.99% Ongoing. 24-hour online account management and Rewards Points for every dollar you spend. APPLY NOW! http://www.bcentral.com/listbot/NextCard ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Thats a great idea Todd i will have to try that next time.SuzukiDave ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com Subject: [GT750] Cylinder removal advice needed From: Gunnar Forsgren Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 17:50:47 +0200 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Get greater financial power with NextCard(r)Visa(r) Transfer balances to an APR as low as 2.99% Intro or 9.99% Ongoing. 24-hour online account management and Rewards Points for every dollar you spend. APPLY NOW! http://www.bcentral.com/listbot/NextCard ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello, this subject has been discussed before, I just would like some support when trying to get the cylinder barrel off. It's just like it would be welded in place! :-( None of my attempts has been fruitful so far. Engine is still in the frame. No sign of it having lifted off the base gasket at any place. The base nut IS removed. Head is off and thus all head bolts are out. I have a rope around the barrel which lifts the weight of the bike just so the center stand lifts from the floor..so the barrel is under constant lifting force. I spray rust oil down the bolt holes so they are half filled with oil. I tap on the barrel from different directions using wooden blocks between it and a quite big sledgehammer but do not want to go too hard on it so some casting would break. Should I sit back and pray for a week or should I light up the acetylene torch and attempt some heat at suitable places? What are the places that are likely to hold it in place ? The bolts didn't show signs of much scaling/sludge. It turned out the engine has been subject to overhaul before, pistons are at 0.5 OD. So I got three NOS STD pistons in the yellow boxes (original style that do not use thrust washers) + STD rings for those who need such a set. But I paid US $250 for them so I hope to find somebody who will pay that. I got three NOS new style 0.5 OD pistons/rings also, I'm not sure that reboring to 2nd OD is really needed, the grinding marks from the cylinder honing is still visible in cylinders. So maybe I'll just install those 0.5 pistons. Maybe removing some glaze is sufficient. Any hints on removing the barrel is of interest. I know about the tool Ray showed me; a massive plate that is screwed to the barrel using the smaller head bolts and then bigger bolts that press on the studs. But I hope to succeed in some other way before I try to manufacture one. Please advice. Regards, /gunnar GT750J, Sweden ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com (Suzuki GT750) Subject: Re: [GT750] Cylinder removal advice needed From: suzukidave@webtv.net (David) Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 12:39:05 -0400 (EDT) -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Get greater financial power with NextCard(r)Visa(r) Transfer balances to an APR as low as 2.99% Intro or 9.99% Ongoing. 24-hour online account management and Rewards Points for every dollar you spend. APPLY NOW! http://www.bcentral.com/listbot/NextCard ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Gunnar , we that have done this before feel for you. It is a supprise how (held down ) the barrels can be. I lucked out and had a parts engine that i used the head off of as the plate you talked about. that and the oil and a lot patience , along with the coaxing with the soft mallot on the exhaust ports and it did break loose. On both engines i have torn down i did find a lot of rust and gunk at the very bottom of the bolt holes that and the suzuki bond on the base gasket do a great job holding it together. One of the list members said he had slid a very thin putty type knife under the barrel to loosen it up , like i said in other email i ruined a barrel trying to pry up on the bottom so be very carefull if you try this. The problem must be the two dissimiler metals the steel bolts and the alum. block they must work chemically aginist each other to produce this problem. SuzukiDav ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: "Suzuki GT750" Subject: Re: [GT750] Cylinder removal advice needed From: "alan warner" Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 20:03:15 +1000 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Gunnar, I used a similar plate to the one the other guys have described quite successfully. As far as I can determine where they hold on is the two outside large bolts at the front of the motor on each side, they both have a locating bush at the bottom, so plenty of penetrating fluid for a day or two, maybe some heat at the area these bushed bolts are located and some gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet, persistance is better than brute force. I have pulled at least seven motors apart using this method and have only failed once when I gave up and actually cut off the crank case before I destroyed the barrel. BE PATIENT. Good Luck Alan -----Original Message----- From: Gunnar Forsgren To: GT750_SRA@listbot.com Date: Monday, 7 May 2001 1:54 Subject: [GT750] Cylinder removal advice needed >Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html > >--------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- >Get greater financial power with NextCard(r)Visa(r) >Transfer balances to an APR as low as 2.99% Intro or 9.99% Ongoing. >24-hour online account management and Rewards Points for every >dollar you spend. APPLY NOW! > >http://www.bcentral.com/listbot/NextCard >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Hello, this subject has been discussed before, I just would like some >support when trying to get the cylinder barrel off. It's just like it >would be welded in place! :-( > >None of my attempts has been fruitful so far. Engine is still in the >frame. >No sign of it having lifted off the base gasket at any place. >The base nut IS removed. Head is off and thus all head bolts are out. >I have a rope around the barrel which lifts the weight of the bike >just so the center stand lifts from the floor..so the barrel is under >constant lifting force. I spray rust oil down the bolt holes so they >are half filled with oil. I tap on the barrel from different >directions using wooden blocks between it and a quite big sledgehammer >but do not want to go too hard on it so some casting would break. >Should I sit back and pray for a week or should I light up the >acetylene torch and attempt some heat at suitable places? What are >the places that are likely to hold it in place ? The bolts didn't >show signs of much scaling/sludge. It turned out the engine has been >subject to overhaul before, pistons are at 0.5 OD. > >So I got three NOS STD pistons in the yellow boxes (original style >that do not use thrust washers) + STD rings for those who need such a >set. But I paid US $250 for them so I hope to find somebody who will >pay that. > >I got three NOS new style 0.5 OD pistons/rings also, I'm not sure that >reboring to 2nd OD is really needed, the grinding marks from the >cylinder honing is still visible in cylinders. So maybe I'll just >install those 0.5 pistons. Maybe removing some glaze is sufficient. > >Any hints on removing the barrel is of interest. >I know about the tool Ray showed me; a massive plate that is screwed >to the barrel using the smaller head bolts and then bigger bolts that >press on the studs. But I hope to succeed in some other way before >I try to manufacture one. Please advice. > >Regards, >/gunnar GT750J, Sweden > > >______________________________________________________________________ >To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com > ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ========NEXT MESSAGE===== To: "Suzuki GT750" Subject: RE: [GT750] Cylinder removal advice needed From: "Prestage, Darrell" Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 13:02 -0500 -------- Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com/links/joinlb ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Gunnar: I have removed a couple of these cylinder blocks with success (meaning they weren't damaged.) But it took me a few hours on each. I would work on it a while then do something else as I was getting frustrated at seemingly not making any progress. But I didn't want to manufacture the head pulling tool either, so I started by pulling the engine out of the frame. That way I could wrestle with it and would have free access to all sides of the lump. I used a putty knife (approx. 40mm wide) and an old steak knife, wood blocks, rubber hammer and tire irons. I started with the putty knife and lightly tapped around the base with a small ball peen hammer trying to start a separation between the cylinder block and the engine block all the while spraying penetrating oil as I went. This whole process is verrry slooow. But eventually I got enough of an opening that I could push the thin edge of the steak knife into a crevice. The steak knife is an old straight edged (not serrated) heavy knife that has a wedge to it as you look at it from the point. Anyway, I put the "sharp edge" in the crevice and gently tapped the knife blade into the opening. I could only get about 2 or 3MM at best at a time. But would go to the opposite side of the cylinder block and see if I could wedge it in there some, then work around the whole base. Try to keep the blade positioned so as not to shave the block or cylinder. So I would alternate back and forth between putty knife, penetrating oil, and knife blade, with an occasional tap from a rubber hammer. After things started breaking loose, I used tire irons wrapped in shop rags between the engine block and cylinders to try to leverage the things apart. I would put one iron on the exhaust side and the other on the intake side, then switch to the left and right sides of the engine. My studs were pretty well rust caked so I had to fight them all the way out, hopefully yours aren't as bad. Even though I had totally filled the stud holes with penetrating oil the studs were not letting go without a fight. The main thing is have patience. The extra time you might have to spend on getting the cylinders off will pay off in a unmangled cylinder block that won't need to be taken to the machine shop. Good luck, and let us know how it comes out. Darrell -----Original Message----- From: Suzuki GT750 [SMTP:GT750_SRA@listbot.com] Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 11:01 AM To: GT750_SRA Subject: [GT750] Cylinder removal advice needed Suzuki GT750 - http://SmokeRiders.com/srmc.html --------------------------- ListBot Sponsor -------------------------- Get greater financial power with NextCard(r)Visa(r) Transfer balances to an APR as low as 2.99% Intro or 9.99% Ongoing. 24-hour online account management and Rewards Points for every dollar you spend. APPLY NOW! http://www.bcentral.com/listbot/NextCard ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello, this subject has been discussed before, I just would like some support when trying to get the cylinder barrel off. It's just like it would be welded in place! :-( None of my attempts has been fruitful so far. Engine is still in the frame. No sign of it having lifted off the base gasket at any place. The base nut IS removed. Head is off and thus all head bolts are out. I have a rope around the barrel which lifts the weight of the bike just so the center stand lifts from the floor..so the barrel is under constant lifting force. I spray rust oil down the bolt holes so they are half filled with oil. I tap on the barrel from different directions using wooden blocks between it and a quite big sledgehammer but do not want to go too hard on it so some casting would break. Should I sit back and pray for a week or should I light up the acetylene torch and attempt some heat at suitable places? What are the places that are likely to hold it in place ? The bolts didn't show signs of much scaling/sludge. It turned out the engine has been subject to overhaul before, pistons are at 0.5 OD. So I got three NOS STD pistons in the yellow boxes (original style that do not use thrust washers) + STD rings for those who need such a set. But I paid US $250 for them so I hope to find somebody who will pay that. I got three NOS new style 0.5 OD pistons/rings also, I'm not sure that reboring to 2nd OD is really needed, the grinding marks from the cylinder honing is still visible in cylinders. So maybe I'll just install those 0.5 pistons. Maybe removing some glaze is sufficient. Any hints on removing the barrel is of interest. I know about the tool Ray showed me; a massive plate that is screwed to the barrel using the smaller head bolts and then bigger bolts that press on the studs. But I hope to succeed in some other way before I try to manufacture one. Please advice. Regards, /gunnar GT750J, Sweden ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to GT750_SRA-unsubscribe@listbot.com